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Last updated on Fri May 21 11:58:06 IST 2010.

First day at Bhalopahar

The road beside which the trekker was standing goes straight to Jharkhand. It was along this road that our over-crowded vehicle sped. There were not-too-green fields on either side of this remarkably straight road. After half an hour or so, the trekker dumped us at one spot on the roadside. A handwritten sign hanging from a large tree nearby pointed to a metal gate in a whitewashed wall. Since it said "Bhalopahar", we ventured to go in.

There was a large garden inside, chokeful of trees. A long passage way led deep into the garden. This passage was guarded by, no, not dogs, but by a brace of no less vigilant swans.

The watchful "dogs" at the entrance to Bhalopahar.

These winged sentinels announced our arrival through aggresive cackles and gestures. At the center of the garden there is a romantic thatch-roofed shelter where the inmates were finishing lunch. Among them was sitting a solidly built elderly person, who turned out to be the head of this organisation: Kamal Chakraborty, a poet. Barin babu, president of the organisation and another poet, was present too. Sanjit told them that he had read their little magazines. This remark made Kamal Babu so very happy that he called Sanjit a sweet boy.

Kamal Chakraborty of Bhalopahar

We were shown to our room, a medium-sized double bed one with attached bath. It cost Rs 300 per day. The garden started right before the little verandah in front of the room. It was certainly relaxing to lounge dreamily in one of the chairs in that verandah and gaze idly at the greenery that seemed to separate one from the rest of the civilised world.

SOme attempt has been made to make this place self-sufficient. Bhalopahar has some farmland in the locality. We found some local women threshing the newly cropped paddy using a threshing machine.

Paddy threshing at Bhalopahar

The green threshing machine consists of a wooden cylinder with metal bristles jutting out in all directions. The cylinder may be turned by operating a pedal, much like a sewing machine. The only trouble is that unless you operate the pedal at the certain rhythm, the cylinder turns in the wrong direction! When the harvested paddy plants are held over the cylinder with the tips touching the bristles, the paddies are threshed out and sent flying in all possible directions. A person then has to sweep the floor with a broom to collect the paddies. This little device is very popular, and costs between Rs 2000 and Rs 2800.

A closer look at the threshing machine

Just beside the threshing machine is an archway leading into what Kamal-Babu calls the "Library". The dusty, high roofed hall does have a pile of books at one end. If we call this a library, then its only members so far seem to be the moths and termites. Indeed they have made sumptuous repast out of a collection of cheap thrillers and digested many issues of the Reader's Digest collecion dating back to as early as 1963. A couple of Complete works of Shakespeare, a few astronomy books as well as a few novels by Dickens have so far succesfully resisted the onslaught of the voracious insects. The books are mostly piled up in dust-covered boxes.

In the evening Kamal-babu took us to his man-made forest. As I have already mentioned, it sprawls over an impressive 150 bighas. "The entire place was barren", he proudly said waving his hand towards what now was a mass of greenery, "we have planted all these trees." There was not much plan or order in the way the trees were planted. This added more to the charm. It was indeed hard to believe that these trees were not natural.

At the Duarshini eco-tourism centre, the government has also planted a huge number of trees. Most of the government trees, however, are of the Sonajhuri type, a variety that grows easily in that arid area, but notoriously sucks up all the nutrients in the soil, leaving the area more barren than before. The bhalopahar forest, on the other hand, contains many fruit trees and flower trees. There are whole clusters of mango trees (which do not thrive well in the local climate) another cluster is devoted to guava.

An open space in the Bhalopahar forest

In fact, with trees everywhere, the forest does not provide the ideal place for photography. But it is ideal for little nature walk.

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© Arnab Chakraborty (2010)