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Last updated on Fri Dec 03 18:51:21 IST 2010.

Bura Madmaheshwar Trip

Great Shiva was sitting in his abode in Kailash listening to the requests of suffering mankind that streamed through many channels. He extended his arm, turned a knob, and tuned in a particular channel. Yearnings and prayers of all sorts filled the air of Kailash. Some were asking for food, some for mobile network, and some for antacids. Then for some time all was silent, and then all the voices started singing a single prayer: "Oh Lord, when will the journey end?" Nandi, sitting close by, was perplexed.

"Why this sudden change in prayer, O Lord?", he asked.

Shiva smiled, "These are some trekkers who have boarded the Duranta to New Delhi," he yawned as he turned off the knob, "and Duranta is running five and half hour late."

Well, we were those poor trekkers, and in case you want to take the Howrah-Delhi Duranta our simple advice is "Don't".

Let me start the tour diary with some details of Duranta. It is a train that is covered in colourful wall paper. And it was very appropriate, because Duranta stood just like a wall outside Delhi as all other trains (quite a few Rajhdhani's among them) ran past us. We were in the AC compartments, and it would be unfair not to describe the in-train service of Duranta. They serve soup (complete with a bread stick, paper tray bearing a 1-800 number and an email address). Not all the passengers, however, enjoy getting a measly cup of soup when they are dying of hunger. Some of the waiters seemed to sympathise with these passengers. "What a whim Didi has!", one of the waiters confided to us, "Does this soup-thing make any sense?" Few of the hungry passengers, alas, see the need for an appetiser. The soup is followed by a l...o...n...g wait, which is an even more effective appetiser. And you will need the extra appetite, because otherwise you might notice that the sweets are of vintage quality, and a bit too sour. The chicken may not quite agree to your bowels. But all these little problems will give way soon to a single worry: When will the journey end? We cursed our fate, cursed our team leader for ever buying tickets for Duranta. Then we all started praying...

While we are busy praying you may take a good look at us. We are 10 in all. A family of two: Tublu-da and Jhilli-di, a family of four: Tubu-da, Ruma-di, Ruku and the sweet and shy Ria (aged 13). And then there was the aged couple Rasmohan-da (61) and his wife Nandita-di, a biology teacher who believed that everybody around her was her student. She showered incessant sermons on everyone around, and thoroughly enjoyed this activity, a feeling that I am afraid was not always shared by others. Dipu-da is our team leader, very optimistic about everything and very confident (if not always well-informed). And, oh, I must not forget about myself. I am busy solving my Rubik cube, and inwardly wishing my wife were with me. So now you have a good idea of who we are.

Duranta was supposed to reach New Delhi at 6:00am. Well, now it is 9:05am, and our train is standing in a field and courteously letting other trains pass past us. We are regaling ourselves by observing the outside world through the tinted window of the AC coach. Nandita-di is bewitched by the variety of flowers and I am trying my best to associate the flowers with the names that she is telling me. We noticed some partridges outside. "Wow, such nice birds!" we all gushed.

"And so tasty too!" added the biology teacher.

It was past 11:30am when finally Duranta entered New Delhi station. A train running 5:30 hours late is nothing to hit the headlines in India. But it set a chain reaction with effects lasting up to the start of our journey. Our plan was to take a bus/car from New Delhi to Hardwar, make a day's sojourn at Hardwar, and then take a long ride to Uniana, which is the roadhead from which the real trek would start. Well, thanks to the late arrival we have now no hope getting the bus. So here we are standing on the platform guarding our luggage that is lying in a big heap before us. Tublu-da and Dipu-da are away looking for a car to Hardwar,.

Road condition to Hardwar was apparently bad, and no car readily agreed to carry us to that holy city. So we finished a lunch at a roadside restaurant in Delhi. Not all, to be precise. Tubu-da refused to take lunch due to some reason not quite clear to me. He had the habit (as I learned later) of getting annoyed with people, and vented his feelings by skipping lunches! I only wish that all of us could vent our feelings like this. It saves trouble, quarrel, food and money! Gandhiji says that it is healthy too.

We are all waiting on the pavement. Vehicles of all description are plying before us making the wildest noise. And we are helplessly watching them from the pavement feeling much like the Ancient Mariner: "Water water everywhere, nor any drop to drink".

The ever-confident Dipu-da had told us that two cars will arrive at 12:40pm. Well, we have finished our lunch at 1:05 pm. At 1:45pm a car did arrive. Unfortunately, it did not have extra carriers for our luggage. So after a brief altercation it left (with the never-fulfilled promise to return with carriers). It was at 3:05pm that a car finally arrived. And what a car! It was a bus of middling size, spacious, and with fans for each seat. The driver was an expert one, to say the least.

Miles after miles slipped under us, as we let our imagination roam ahead to the trek of our dream. It was my first trek for two years. Tublu-da and Jhilli-di had their last trek five years ago.

We are rushing down Merut road. It reminds me of G T Road. Narrow, dusty, heavy traffic. At 4:45pm we experienced the first traffic jam at Gaziabad. But the road condition recovered soon, and at 5:00pm the road under our wheels is as nice as you can hope for. And then we came to a rather narrow stretch of the road, flanking an enormous bridge under construction. This bridge was supposed to be finished before the Commonwealth Games, but has been continuing to be the bane of travellers for the last three years.

From 5:45pm to 6:35pm we have advanced just a few metres. The road is so narrow that it is difficult to see what is going on ahead. A muffled din of shouting people and honking horns is coming from ahead. All that we can discern is that traffic from a cross-road is pouring in, and the poor traffic police is at a perfect loss.

The twilight outside has now darkened. Our engine was switched off, the driver was out at the front inspecting the site of the jam. Tublu-da (who had a gift of remaining cool in trying situations) is singing snatches of Bengali songs in a sweet voice. Jhilli-di and the biology teacher are showering advices for the traffic police. They remarked how easily we Bengalis usually solve such traffic problems by simply breaking the windows of the cross traffic. They also pointed out the effectiveness of non-veg eating habits in tackling such problems.

I do not know if the traffic police really benefited from these sundry pieces of wisdom. But we did manage to pass through the crossing at 7:10pm. And after a minor jam at 7:30pm, we were greatly relieved when our driver wheeled into a lavish roadside eatery called the Mulchand Resorts at 8:10pm. We lightly loaded our stomach, unloaded our straining bladders and bowels. A clear sky above, soothing atomosphere...we were ready to forget the day's trauma. Duranta had done its worst, its effect is now past. We started from the resort at 8:45pm. The journey was smooth and uneventful. I fell asleep...

At 11:15pm I was jolted up into consciousness. "We have arrived at Hardwar", someone said. I opened my eyes. Yes, there was the familiar staircase of the Chintamani Ashram. I hopped down. The luggage was being brought down from the top of the car. And there was our ever faithful, ever smiling porter-cum-cook-cum-guide Ballu at my side. "Bhul to nehi gaye?" he said with an endearingly warm smile.

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© Arnab Chakraborty (2010)